Then we'll take Berlin

Unlike Dublin, London and occasionally Paris, Berlin hasn’t yet succumbed to the increasing pace of modern life and become a stressful, impersonal, and overpriced capital. words: Paul Walsh

, 12 Mar 2008

Unlike Dublin, London and occasionally Paris, Berlin hasn’t yet succumbed to the increasing pace of modern life and become a stressful, impersonal, and overpriced capital. Quite the opposite – it’s a creative, bohemian, liberal city with a café culture, where you can enjoy an appetising three-course meal with drinks and still have change from €20.

Getting to Berlin couldn’t be easier. Both Ryanair and Aer Lingus fly to Schönefeld airport which is serviced by trains (S9 and S45) into the city that leave reliably frequently. Whatever you do, don’t take a cab – it will be at least €30. Sadly, cab fares are not dissimilar to Irish rates. The train will cost you €2.20, take approx 40mins to Alexander Platz and spin you across the river Spree, giving you the opportunity to take in the sights.

I recommend you stay in the East of the city. Mitte, Friedricshain and Kreuzberg are the three districts favoured by those with creative leanings and tend to be closer to many of the essential attractions. As you stroll through the streets (without being forced into a Grafton-street-like human dodgems competition) you’ll be forgiven for wondering if in fact it’s Sunday or a public holiday. It’s not. This is the way Berlin is.

The TV tower (Fernsehturm) at Alexander Platz can be seen from all over the city and is a useful landmark for those whose who like to wander. It’s also worth taking a trip to the top and seeing the 360 degree view to get a real sense of the city’s expanse. There’s a rotating restaurant at the very top – you need to book in advance for a table to avoid queuing – but, to be honest, the observation tower just one level below it is more than enough.

Hackescher Markt, which is around the corner from Alexander Platz and on the S-Bahn line, has an array of restaurants to satisfy all tastes. Should you fancy stretching your legs after a bite to eat, you can access the river Spree directly from Hackescher Markt and enjoy a mesmerizing trip past architecture new and old, with street markets, museums and, if you’re there in summertime, beach bars by the riverside (they bring in sand each summer to facilitate these bars). This route will take you directly to the top of Friedrich Strasse which is one of the main shopping streets. From the lower end of this street, it’s just a 20min walk, or short U-Bahn trip, to Checkpoint Charlie. Its museum, memorabilia shops and overpriced souvenirs of bygone eras are fascinating. However, apart from some emotive photos from pre-1989 in the checkpoint museum, it’s hard to feel a sense of the events that tore the city and country apart. The nearby Brandenburg Gate is the portal to more a striking insight. Turn right (when approaching from the Friedrich Strasse side) and you can visit the Reichstag and its spiral stair-cased Dome (apparently Tuesday morning is when queues are at their shortest), but not before passing a photographic tribute-wall to those who attempted, and failed to cross the East/West divide. Take a left after passing under the Brandenburg gate (again coming from the Friedrich Strasse side) and head for the Holocaust memorial, which only opened to the public in May ’05. Continue a few minutes after the memorial andf you’ll reach the capitalist creation that is Potzdam Platz, definitely worth a look.

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